THE GRAND ENCHANTMENT TRAIL: March 4th- Tortilla Pass to Outside Superior

Rogers Canyon Cliff Dwelling

When I reached Angel Basin, a beautiful,open grassy area surrounded by stately oaks, there was still a light coating of frost on the ground. I'd expected to come across a few tents but soon discovered that I had the place all to myself, which meant that I could explore the cliff dwellings in Rogers Canyon at my leisure. A short yet steep side trail branching left from the main, takes you to the base of the ruins, where a simple wooden sign relates the basic information about the site. A little scramble up the rock and I was on the stone porch in front of the habitation area. This particular site is said to have contained about sixty-five rooms and storage areas, and most likely housed close to 100 people. Most of the site is now destroyed, but it's still one of the best examples of its kind in the area. As I gazed out above the trees, enjoying a mid-morning snack, I wondered what life must have been like for the natives who lived here over 600 years ago. A perennial stream, a spot of open ground for limited agriculture, some nut trees, and a fair amount of game in the form of deer, rabbit and quail, could have made it a nice haven for the Salado who dwelt here.
After thoroughly enjoying my time exploring the cliff dwellings, I continued on the path up Rogers Canyon. Plenty of shade trees along the course of the stream, which burbled delightfully over its stony bed, while at other times going silent when it disappeared beneath a patch of sand and gravel. Soon enough, I reached the junction with the Arizona Trail, familiar territory since I thru-hiked it in the spring of 2012. A short time later, I met Katie Birch from Colorado, a section hiker doing a stint of the AZT to Reavis Ranch.
The forest road leading away from Rogers Trough Trailhead had a bit of up and down as it followed a ridgeline, but there are some expansive views to be had as I looked back over the Superstitions in the direction of Phoenix. There were two couples in their Polaris Rangers also taking in the sights along the ridge. The funny thing was that even though they were in motorized vehicles and I was on foot, we played a great game of leapfrog over the course of a mile or two. They'd drive up to the next viewpoint and while they stood and gazed across the slopes, I'd mosey on by. A few minutes later, up they came to pass me. I followed their progress and saw them stop at the next turnout for further viewing. Steadily, I hiked onward, caught up and sauntered by again. After catching them a third time, they grew curious and asked me what I was doing out there, so I had an opportunity to tell them about the GET. Like most folk, they were surprised that I was travelling so far and carrying so little. They were also worried about my food and water situation, so I explained to them the strategy of resupply and the fact that, so far, water sources had been numerous. I suppose the forest roads they'd been following high on the ridgeline made it seem as if everything were dry and dusty.
After wishing me well, we parted ways. They continued on the forest road and I went back on trail heading toward Montana Mountain, the high point for this trail section. There's a pleasant little spot there, dotted by oaks, that makes for a fine lunch break. Munching on granola bars, I had expansive views all the way down canyon where the land becomes much more arid. From this highpoint, the trail plunges towards the canyon floor on a large series of grassy switchbacks, which will definitely test the resiliency of your knees, as they can be a tad jarring. However, once the floor is reached, the walking is as easy as you please along the intermittent stream. Traces of a recent flood had changed the appearance of this area from what I remember it being three years ago while trekking through here. Not needing water, I nevertheless checked in on Mud Spring to see what it looked like. Floating chunks of algae and a plethora of mosquito larvae made me glad I wasn't thirsty. Besides, my reliable source for water in the GET's segment two is the windmill and corral a couple of miles past the Reavis Trailhead. There's a large, square cement tank with a couple of float valves, which can be pressed down releasing fresh water out of the spigots directly into your water bottles. No need to filter. There's also a shady mesquite tree, a small round table and a few cut logs that act as chairs to sit on next to the adjoining tin shed. I took the opportunity to have an afternoon snack and a field bath. While relaxing in the cool of the shade, a whole cavalcade of off-road vehicles drove by, stirring up dust on the opposite side of the corral. I believe in Arizona, and I'm sure in other places, they have clubs for these off-roading enthusiasts, some of whom are most definitely retirees. Meet in the morning, pick a destination and pack a lunch. As I hiker, the only problem I have with people with this passion is when they ignore signs indicating that the foot trail is not for use by motor vehicles of any kind. A machine can sure tear up a trail, especially if the ground is soft or muddy.
After my rest, I was back to hoofing it when I encountered a Brahma bull snacking on some greenery near the mouth of Whitford Canyon. Normally, I tread softly on past, but I'm always wary of skittery cattle, which, on rare occasions can be highly unpredictable. Obviously, this one had a burr up its behind because it charged me. Thank goodness for a big thorn bush that was growing nearby. As quick as a flash, I jumped behind it and found myself staring eye to eye with the snorting, belligerent creature on the other side of the spiky shrub. Nothing else to do but stand there until he grew less hostile and wandered off a bit. What bee was in his bonnet, I'll never know. Anyway, danger avoided, I was rewarded with one of today's highlights just a half mile further on. Whitford Canyon, a beautiful micro riparian habitat, replete with tall cottonwoods narrowly hemmed in by dark pink cliffs.
After exiting the canyon, the trail leaves the intermittent stream and continues into the hills of the high desert plain. Nothing but low mesquite bushes and a variety of prickly cacti here, while off to the west was the flood plain of an expansive wash. Wandering through this wasteland, I eventually made my way to the pipeline road and disused train track heading towards Superior. Resupply is tomorrow, so I made camp amidst the mesquite a few miles out of town. As the sun set in the west, it lit the cliffs beyond Superior into a crimson hue and the full moon which had just risen shown with an other-worldly glow.

Distance: 22.2 miles